Itinerary: Baltimore/DC 2025 (during shutdown)

For Fall Break 2025 we wanted to take the kids to DC to visit the major historical sites and museums. We of course couldn’t predict that there would be a government shutdown during our trip when we were booking our Air BnB and flights months in advance. Ultimately we decided there was enough to do in DC that we should keep everything as scheduled and make the best of it and we were so glad we did! We didn’t overbook ourselves and had a wonderful time as a family.

I wanted to share our itinerary in case others are trying to find things to do during a shutdown in DC in the future. And of course I have thoughts on restaurants. I do want to give a big nod to Sarah Stewart Holland at By Plane or By Page (https://stewartholland.substack.com). She travels with her three boys and husband frequently and has the very best itineraries with great restaurant recommendations. I bought her itinerary before this trip and it was a great starting point for recommendations.

Day 1

Fly to Baltimore/Washington International

Pick up rental car

Lunch: We grabbed a quick lunch at Peter’s Inn (https://www.petersinn.com) which was near our hotel and right downtown. Andrew and I shared the crab cake plate and it was delicious.

A surprise find was the four Historic Ships of Baltimore (https://historicships.org). You buy a single ticket and can visit all four of these ships over your trip (you don’t have to do it in a single day). They are set up like museums with lots of items to read and learn about. Each ship takes about 30 minutes to get through so it isn’t a big time commitment. We wound up doing two ships our first day and two the second and the kids really enjoyed them.

Check in to Hotel: Baltimore Marriott Waterfront

Dinner: We met longtime friends at LP Steamers (https://www.locustpointsteamers.com) for some crabs. I had been here before with the same friends and wanted our son, Bear, to have the experience. He loved it! We crushed 18 crabs as a table. The hush puppies are worth a try too.

Day 2

Walk to Brunch: Miss Shirley’s Inner Harbor (https://www.missshirleys.com). This was a great spot for local fare and classic favorites. They are known for their pancakes and everything else we had was great as well.

Blurry photo taken by Bear at Miss Shirley’s.

Walk to National Aquarium (https://aqua.org). Our kids love aquariums so we’ve been to quite a few and I would say the National Aquarium is definitely a top notch aquarium that is worth a visit. I really enjoyed the special jellyfish exhibit. Bear really liked how many sharks you could see and Ladybug stood at the touch and feel exhibit for a very long time. Beast commented several times how interesting the building was because they made sure you had multiple perspectives for several exhibits (from above, the side, and below. Buy your timed entry tickets before you visit and well in advance. Pro tip: Grab a cocktail for your visit! I lost sight of Beast for a minute and he had snuck off to the Harbor View Room on the top floor to get me a cocktail to sip on while we walked around. There were a handful of people doing the same thing and a boat load of people looking at me jealously.

After the aquarium we saw a couple more of the Historic Ships. We then stumbled upon a golf simulator bar and restaurant and since it was raining we hung out there for an hour or so (https://fiveirongolf.com) where I would say the golf was better than any of the things we ordered to snack and sip on. Then we walked back to our hotel to get cleaned up for dinner.

Walk to Dinner: Charleston (https://charlestonrestaurant.com). This was an amazing experience! Charleston offers design-your-own tasting menus where you can choose 3 to 6 courses and then dessert. We did the 3 course option for each of us with Beast and I adding the wine pairings. Our least adventurous eater had a salad, spaghetti, and steak options and then the rest of us had a wide variety of seafood, pasta, and meat options. My duck was incredible and the wine pairings were perfect and well worth the additional cost. Our kids ate everything on their plates and we were all sharing tastes of everything so I would say the 3 courses plus dessert was perfect for us. Reservations are definitely recommended. Pro tip: If taking kids, pull up the menu ahead of time so they have more time to make their selections.

Example menu.
It was a beautiful walk between our hotel and Charleston along the water.

Day 3

Walk to Breakfast: Kneads Bakeshop (https://www.kneadsbakeshop.com). Beast found this option and we all loved every item we ordered. Highly recommend the quiche and an espresso martini.

Drive to DC (~2 hours)

Visit Arlington National Cemetery (https://www.arlingtoncemetery.mil/#/) which was open despite the shutdown. You can pay for tours but we chose to walk instead since it was such a nice day. We also avoided crowds this way. We visited the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier during the changing of the guard ceremony at the top of the hour which is worthwhile to time your visit around. The kids had lots of questions about what they were seeing and Ladybug especially was really moved by the sheer amount of burial sites you can see from various vantage points along our walk. It led to lots of good discussions throughout the day. Pro tip: If you know where a family member is buried, you can cross the barriers and go directly to that grave. We visited my uncle and I felt the need to ask for permission to cross the barriers since I wasn’t seeing anyone else doing it. The lovely individual working security told me it wasn’t a problem as long as I knew where to go. I had done a search of their website before going and had a print out with directions but there is also a search help site available in the Visitor Center.

Drive to International Spy Museum (https://www.spymuseum.org). I was very, very glad that I had purchased time entry tickets well in advance. This museum has seen a boom in visitors since it is not government funded and was open during the shutdown. People were sitting at the entrance trying to get tickets from 3rd party sites when we arrived because the tickets had already sold out for the day. You cannot enter early or late as they start you through the experience exactly at your ticket time. The parking garage was directly under this building and somewhat hard to find (you do a lot of U-turns and going down level after level before you even enter the garage. Keep doing the U-turns when directed to and you will eventually get there!

Address of garage with validated (20% off) parking: L’Enfant Plaza Garage420 10th Street SW Washington, DC 20024

I was really impressed with this museum and the level of interaction each topic/exhibit had. They advertise it should take 2 hours to get through but our kids took 2 and a half hours and honestly probably could have spent 3 hours. Bear is big into spy novels so he especially enjoyed the experience. After seeing the Aston Martin James Bond used in Goldfinger, we decided to start watching the Bond movies in order, which became a fun way to wind down at night during the trip.

After the museum we ran by a grocery store on the way to our AirBnB. We stayed in the Capitol Hill area which was a short drive in to the city for attractions but had lots of restaurants and coffee shops within walking distance.

Walk to Dinner: Paraiso (https://paraisotaqueria.com). We made a reservation here not realizing it was perfect timing for Taco Tuesday (and their $14 for 3 tacos deal). We tried a variety of tacos, ceviches, and a tuna tostada that Bear wolfed down. The margaritas were great and the tacos were so good we ordered another 3 to try even more types.

He shared a bite or two.

We finished the night by watching Dr. No at our place.

Day 4

Breakfast: At place

Go to National Mall (https://www.nps.gov/nama/index.htm). We parked at the Ronald Regan building (https://rrbitc.com/parking/) which was a great location for walking to the mall and around the White House. We visited almost every monument on the mall with the kids walking almost 7 miles this day! We took lots of water and snack breaks to keep them going with the plan being a late lunch they were looking forward to.

Walk to Late Lunch/Happy Hour: Old Ebbitt Grill (https://www.ebbitt.com). Reservations are a must. We chose a 3 pm reservation to give us plenty of time to walk around the mall and to get Happy Hour pricing on oysters and seafood towers since Bear is not a cheap date when he is eating seafood. Everything was over the top wonderful including the service. It was fun to see and hear the bar fill up with folks working in the government as well.

After a leisurely lunch, we drove around for a bit before heading back to our place for a low key night. With all the walking, the kids were very excited to have an easy night watching movies and eating pizza.

Beast and I ordered online and then walked to pick up pizza at Della Barba (https://dellabarbapizza.com) which was just a 5 minute walk from our place. They tied the box up with string and added checkered napkins on top which was a cute touch. The thick crust style was delicious and filling, both appreciated by all of us after walking all day.

We watched From Russia With Love and Goldfinger before crashing for the night.

Day 5

Breakfast: At place

This was the day we had to revamp entirely because everything I had tickets for wound up being canceled due to the shutdown. I had coordinated with a Senate office for a tour of the Capitol and had tickets to Live at the Library of Congress. It all wound up working out though because there is really so much to do and see in DC.

We drove to the Georgetown area and walked around the campus, including the bookstore and rec center. Beast bought a hat at the campus bookstore and it was fun to show the kids another example of a college campus. Bear loved that the rec center had a golf simulator.

For a quick lunch we stopped by Billy Hicks (https://billyhicks.com) where the kids shared probably the biggest and best Bavarian pretzel they have ever ordered (and they order these frequently)!

Next, we were on to the Planet Word museum (https://planetwordmuseum.org). Time entry tickets were strongly recommended here although they were a bit more flexible with your assigned time. Here you learned about how the English language developed and how it can be used in song, ads, etc. Ladybug sang karaoke with us which if not a core memory for her, it certainly was for Beast and me!

We were fortunate enough to have plans with friends for the evening. We met my college friend, Marisa, and her family at Rock Creek Nature Center and Planetarium (https://www.nps.gov/rocr/planyourvisit/planetarium.htm). We were there after hours so we didn’t go in the exhibit (but I heard from Marisa’s kids that Skippy the turtle is a must see) but we used the outdoor picnic tables for dinner and drinks while the kids ran wild in the woods for a little bit.

Back at our place we watched a final Bond movie of the trip (Thunderball) and Ladybug and I had our girly time with face masks and eye masks.

Watermelon juice and rosé

Day 6

Breakfast: At place

Drive to Annapolis (40 minutes)

We drove around the US Naval Academy and walked around the shops at the City Dock area just off the water.

Many of the restaurants picked on this trip were selected because I knew other people in my family would enjoy them but my lunch pick for our last day was for me: The Choptank (https://thechoptankrestaurant.com/annapolis/). We sat on the rooftop deck in the sunshine and it was divine! Oysters, lobster rolls and rosé were thoroughly enjoyed and I probably could have sat there for a few more hours people and boat-watching.

Fly back home

———————

While we had to pivot quite a bit and we did not get to see all the things we had planned on (especially the Capitol, Library of Congress, and Smithsonians!) it was still a really great trip. I remember someone telling me about this stage (tween kids) being a sweet spot for travel when our kids were much younger. I can absolutely feel that now as they are so easy and fun to travel with. And at least still want to be around us a little bit! It absolutely makes me want to fully appreciate this time that we have and soak it up.

Happy Travels!

Other options I was told about as options to go to in the case of a government shutdown but that I can’t personally vouch for:

Colonial Williamsburg

Ford’s Theatre

NatGeo Museum

Mount Vernon

Planet Word

Museum of the Bible

Kreeger Museum

Rubell Museum

Served with Love (in Charlotte): What to eat in Charlotte, NC

I travel usually once a year for work to attend a genetics educational conference.  This means I get to stay on top of my continuing education credits to continue to be certified but also that I get to try new restaurants in an often new city, which I love.

After a quick google of the “best restaurants in Charlotte” I found The Asbury.  From a quick look at the menu, it seemed like elevated Southern food which was exactly what I was wanting.  So I gave it a try and was not disappointed.

The chef, Matthew Krenz, won the NC Chef Showdown in 2017.  I am a sucker for young waiters being so excited to tell me things like this that I fall hook, line, and sinker in love with a place almost immediately.  I love that they seemed so proud to mention this about the place they work.  They are probably coached to do this because it works (case example: me).

When you enter The Asbury you are greeted with the kindness you expect in the South: people asking how your night is going and actually looking you in the eye like they care about your answer.  The hostess mentioned how they have a new spring menu.  When I asked what she recommended from it, she easily recommended her favorite from their dinner menu: Crispy Pork Cheek.

What I ordered:

  • Wine
  • Maw Maw’s Cast Iron Biscuits with Bacon jam
  • 2 oysters
  • Small Crispy Pork Cheek
  • Panna cotta
  • Asbury coffee

The run down:

The wine list wasn’t expansive but had great options of every type for every price range.  I was very happy with the glass I ordered.

Biscuits were good but maybe a little dry.  Bacon jam made them just right and I look forward to having my leftovers for breakfast tomorrow.

Oysters were small, creamy, and sweet.  As an oyster lover, I am often given the option of 6 or 12 oysters and depending on who I am dining with, that may work or be way to much.  I loved how you could order the exact amount you wanted.

The Crispy Pork Cheek was fabulous.  This dish tasted like spring and made me excited for my garden.  The ginger and carrot bisque was a perfect compliment to the crispy pork and perfectly cooked fresh peas and black eyed peas.  It felt fancy Southern and I would have licked my plate if it was socially acceptable.  Did the pork cheek need to be fried?  No, in short.  BUT, the light tempura batter gave it a nice crunch and texture and made it feel even more Southern so my opinion was that it was worth the calories.  Also, the seasonal entrees come in small and large portions so you are able to get a small and try more things (which is what I did).  I loved this and if my hubby was with me, we probably would have tried three small entrees just to get a good sampling of what they had to offer.IMG_6795

I told the waiter I was having a hard time deciding on dessert and the panna cotta was what he recommended.  It was divine.  Creamy custard topped with shaved fennel and I believe an apple gel.  I loved the little crunchy bites of the fennel with the creamy custard.  I’d order it again.  And again.  And again.IMG_6797

The Asbury coffee was simply good coffee and various liquours but it was good and came in decaf (my waiter swore this was true and was willing to give me his home number to call at 3 AM if that wasn’t the case).

The food was fabulous.  Ambience was good.  I did think it was a little weird having mainly rustic barn paintings on one side and almost all modern cow paintings on the other.  You usually associate that “look” with a coffee shop that has little price tags on all the paintings but that wasn’t the case here.  So the art, if there permanently, could be more cohesive but that is a minor criticism of a place with such fabulous food and service.

I would definitely recommend The Asbury and if I am ever back in Charlotte, I’ll be checking out what’s on their seasonal menu and likely booking a table again.

Served With Love (in Austin): What to do and eat in Austin/Waco

Beast and I just got back from a little getaway in Austin so I thought I would share some of the recommendations we received and the places we found on our own that were fabulous.  When the two of us visit a city together we pretty much always plan out our time the same way:  we find a place to stay that is within walking distance to some fun areas and then we make reservations for brunch and dinner each day.  The rest of the trip has a way of filling itself in naturally along the way.

Here’s our thoughts on what to do (and eat) in Austin/Waco:

Stay: North of 6th Street on the western end of the bar/music district.  We did not listen to this advice.  While we were very close to 6th Street and lots of great things, our walks home at night were maybe not as safe as they could have been if we were 4 blocks west.

Get in line for: Franklin BBQ.  It opens at 11 AM and most days you’ll need to be in line by then to make sure you get some of their now world-famous brisket.  We literally drove straight from the airport to get our spot in line.  The wait was 2 hours which sounds like a lot for BBQ but it really, really is worth it.  While you are waiting, they have lawn chairs you can sit in and move along the line.  You can also walk up to the counter to order drinks to enjoy while you wait.  Once you do get to the counter, make sure you get a mix of fatty and lean brisket (1 lb) at least and save a couple of slices for a late night snack.  We had some sausage, ribs, and beans as well but the star really is the brisket, which I will gladly wait in line for again.

     

Walk around: 6th Street.  Lots of bars and live music.  Food trucks galore.  We’re suckers for a piano bar and enjoyed a couple hours at Pete’s Dueling Piano Bar.  Sit upstairs for a great view of the piano show and fabulous people-watching.

Fancy dining: Walk to wink restaurant.  They have a daily menu with new creations and 5 or 7 course pairing menus with the option of very reasonable wine pairings.  We were VERY happy with everything we tasted and would highly recommend the 5 course menu with the wine pairings.  The service was fabulous.  Since we were there celebrating our anniversary, our waitress took a copy of the menu they had printed with our names on it and had the chef sign it.  Sweet touch.

Casual, local flavor: Uber to Matt’s El Rancho.  This one came recommended to us by a colleague of mine who grew up in Austin.  It did not disappoint.  Margaritas were great as was their signature appetizer: The Bob Armstrong.

Walk around: The State Capitol and UT.  Wander around the capitol and when you see a tour going through, just start following them as long as you want to.

Hole-in-the-wall find: Arturo’s Underground Cafe for breakfast or lunch.  Beast loved the migas and I loved my The Works breakfast tacos.  The Texas Pecan coffee they had was delicious.  Go ahead and pay the extra dollar for bottomless coffee because you’ll want a refill.

Brewery: Uber to Lazarus Brewing.  This might be the find of the trip.  A place that sells coffee, tacos, and beer would intrigue us already but then you walk in this place and WOW.  It is gorgeous.  Deep, moody colors on the walls, cognac leather and natural wood everywhere, everything looking 100% curated and thought out.  Not the typical stainless steel and butcher block bar you see at 90% of the breweries we’re visited.  I kept telling Beast “This doesn’t look like a normal brewery.  I think a woman is involved in this somehow.”  And after we got talking to the incredibly friendly staff, we learned that yes, that is true.  A pastor and his wife started the brewery and she is the one behind the hospitality and coffee.  And their daughter is an apprentice brew master.  They clearly make a great team along with some other folks that help them brew and run the place.  They have only been open about a year and have already won a gold medal at the Great American Beer Festival.  They also have this cool crowd funding thing they did where they sold gorgeous glass beer steins for $1000 and then the “Patron Saint” who bought it gets their first drink free for life and keeps their special glass displayed at the brewery behind the bar.  A bunch of people apparently use this brewery (and their free wifi) as their home office so in the morning you’ll see a bar full of people with laptops drinking coffee and by 5 pm they’ve switched to beer.  Just a really cool place run by really cool people and definitely worth a stop if you are in Austin.

Bar: Across the street from Lazarus Brewing is an old granary-turned-bar called Whisler.  They only have two kinds of beer but they mix up some very tasty cocktails.  Candles are lit throughout the space making it a cozy, old find.  Out back is a well-known food truck called Thai Kun (from the same folks as East Side King), which we thoroughly enjoyed.  The panang curry left our mouths on fire, but Whisler’s “Root Down” cocktail with a piece of candied ginger was all we needed to get back on track.  We then went back over to Lazarus to have another new favorite to end the night.

Brunch: Uber to Stubb’s Gospel Brunch (Sunday).  The food was great and they bring in various gospel groups to sing while you’re eating.  I’d highly recommend the ticket with a “view of the band” so you get the full experience.

Drive to: This whole trip was planned by Beast so he could take me to Waco for Magnolia Market at the Silos.  I’ve been a fan of the HGTV show “Fixer Upper” for some time and think Chip and Joanna Gaines are just adorable.  The market was very fun and totally worth the trip to shop and enjoy the grounds.  The cupcakes from the Silos Bakery were delicious and also worth the short line we waited in.  The whole operation was a well-oiled machine with lots of friendly people making everything run super smoothly.  After we shopped and ate some samplings from the various food trucks, we took the free trolley around town.  It took 15 minutes and basically showed us the rest of the downtown area.  We then knew where we wanted to be dropped off on the next go around so we could visit other shops and the Farmer’s Market (Saturday).  I would say a half day in Waco was good for us but you could probably find enough to do to stretch it to a full day.  Staying in Austin and then renting a car for a day to drive there worked perfectly.

On the way back: Stop in Salado, TX.  We happened on this town trying to find a brewery and stumbled on “the best art town in Texas.”  There are lots of cute shops, art galleries, and then Barrow Brewing Co.  Beast and I played Trivial Pursuit at this brewery while sipping on their creations for at least 2 1/2 hours.  When we went it was the town Christmas Market and it felt like every person in town was out and about shopping and chatting.  It is a great place to stop right off I-35.

So there you have it!  If you’re visiting Austin, check out these spots!  If you’ve visited Austin before and have other favorite spots, please leave them in the comments.

Happy Traveling!

Mel